L'Artusi

Ok, I know it. I've been gone for way too long and left TDF to lay fallow for a bit more than I wanted to. I'm sorry. Do you forgive me? I hope so.

Is the excuse that I was in a show in Brooklyn and was in rehearsal seven days a week any good? Probably not. It’s lame, I know, and even more so because it wasn't the only reason for my absence. The other culprit is what this Florida girl calls the hibernation-inducing "WinterMehs ." Even though I’ve been living in the Northeast for quite some time now, every winter shocks me like one of those truly horrible kisses you had when you were fifteen: way too wet, sloppy and something to quickly run away from. Whenever holiday giggles melt into mid-January blah, I feel tired, my bones get chilly straight down to my marrow and really the only thing I want to do is sneak under my covers until the thermometer starts to smile again.

But while much of my quasi-hibernation took place either in the theater or my bed, one other locale was able to snatch me out of my warm sheets more than once: L’Artusi, the new sibling to Joe Campanele and Gabe Thompson's Dell'anima. The roomier spot starts where Dell’anima left off and adds on considerably, with a wide array of medium plates (to be differentiated from the small-plate swell ), an obvious affinity for wine and a general cheery disposition.

The new joint is sleek upon entrance, catering to the posh West Village area surrounding it. A short hallway of smooth black panels, splatter-painted concrete and hidden bathrooms made me worry I was in too-cool land until I stepped in just a bit more. Then, the room opens into a comforting Cape Cod-meets-Italian eatery, where pristine white cabinetry, marble counter tops and a navy blue color palette add up to an ambiance that says nautical in aMediterranean way. This combination of clean colors, warm accents and friendly staff speaks to the main idea here: comfortable yet chic—and viceversa . This is not a spot that knocks your socks off in any extreme way, but in this cold, I usually want my socks on. Instead it soothes and pleases, making it a lovely place to lure me out of my mehs.

The food runs a similarly easy-going and enjoyable course, with a few stumbles but none that would keep me away. Although upstairs and to the right of the entrance boast well-spaced tables, my favorite spots to nosh are at the L-shaped bar, sliver of a cheese counter or by the open kitchen. From there, it's time to get a-picking. The food is separated by type: crudo(raw/mostly fish items), verdure, pasta, pesce, carne and contorti . Good thing the prices actually do approximate the serving size: bigger price tag, mostly bigger plate (I say mostly because from the crudo section, the prices are a bit higher for even smaller-sized seafood dishes).

I like to meander in all of the categories. The scallop tartare is a zinger to start with slices of the mollusk gussied up with just a touch of sea salt, lemon, olive oil and a snappy Italian red pepper, espelette. Clearing the sinuses while charming the tongue, this dish hit all the right notes to start off. Unfortunately the marlin crudo doesn't reach the same heights, and the garnishes of ginger, yuzu and apple (which individually are usually zesty and interesting), seem to melt into the mild fish for a bland overall flavor.

For some healthy greens, other than the classic and elegant frisee salad with poached egg and spot-on red wine vinaigrette, I'd head to the contorti for a more inventive use of vegetables. The fennel with orange and honey takes one of my favorite bulbs and makes it a bit naughty with sweet citrus segments and decadent honey for a caramelized, sexy dish unexpected from a sides list. Less sensual but equally tasty are the roasted brussel sprouts with parmigiano—really, what could be bad? Tangy, bitter orbs with salty cheese. Yum. This is one old-school trick that should not go away.

For the real heavy-hitter, winter winners, head to the pasta. The first time I tasted the pizzoccheri, instead of bundling in my bed, I wanted to bundle in these layers. Buckwheat sheets are nestled between shaved brussel sprouts (again with the bitter deliciousness) and hearty helpings of decadent fontina cheese. In one mouthful, they combine to taste like warmth, comfort and perhaps just a touch of sex...yes, it's that good. Plus the hearty and heart-healthy buckwheat made me forgive myself for the gooiness that is all that cheese.

The zestier orecchiette will make you want to sit up, where the pizzocherri made you sit back—both smart choices. Sausage and salumi create the spicy hum heard by the tiny ear pasta, with bitter green tempering the seasonings of the meat. A delicate and light sauce pools at the bottom, perfect for dipping and scooping up said salami left over.

Unfortunately, the old standby of spaghetti and meatballs didn't fare quite as well as the two above, and perhaps because of too much finagaling. Good point: golf-size meatball well seasoned and tender. Medium point: well-cooked pasta. Meh-point: weirdly fiery sauce overdone with an extra hit of meat in the form of gummy pancetta . While I applaud the indulgent idea of adding meat to meat, the heat searing my mouth and extra chews it took to get through the oddpancetta took that smile off my face. Too bad.

Fortunately my drowsy grin returned with a glass of tocai from the reasonably priced and wide-ranging Italian wine list, and the quail from the carne column. Usually a paltry fowl, this bird had real punch from being perfectly cooked for sweet, tender meat and a wake-up from preserved lemon. The sweetbreads also were prepared well with their oozy insides shielded by crisp outsides, and again, fruit balancing game, this time in the form of pungent blood oranges.

The pesce list also offers carne, only as a compliment to the skate. I love this take on surf and turf, with the thin ray featured from the sea and a chunk of unapologetic Berkshire pork sitting beside it. Unusual best friends, but tasty nonetheless, although best eaten separately. If eaten in one munch, the skate might as well not have even shown up to the party. But any which way you turn in this dish, you'll be satisfied with both heft and a delicate touch.

The drink list oddly and wonderfully follows this course, too. There are light cocktails with girly flavors or some seriously heavy mezcal choices. Just like the menu, there are serious undertakings if you would like, but you can be just as happy to put on a cute sweater and get your comfort-carbs on, too.

Fortunately Spring is coming soon and my mehs will disappear with the snow and annoying coat wearing (on the subway...getting all hot, take the coat off, put it back on..I really can't handle it). But with its revolving menu and affable nature, perhaps I'll find another excuse to hibernate at L'Artusi for just a bit longer. Now back to bed...it's 19 degrees out.

L'Artusi
Rating: Great
Address: 228 West 10th Street (between Hudson and Bleecker)
Phone:212.255.5757