Mia Dona

After a delicious and simple dinner at Kefi two years ago, I admired Michael Psilakis and his crystal-clear flavors and obvious food-joy. So, after reading about his other ventures, I thought it wise to find out firsthand what all the newer fuss was about, despite recent unappealing/hunky photos of the chef floating around online. I chose his more casual, Italian-based restaurant, Mia Dona, where he partners with constant chum Donatella Arpaia, as my initial expedition.

My first try was a pre-theater dinner, and walking into the fairly empty, dim restaurant during the no-mans land of six pm felt odd and lonely, especially in the nether dining region of the east 60s. The low lighting eerily reminded me of cocktail waitressing with a shift starting at four pm—getting to a place of nighttime pleasures while the sun was still blazing always felt awkward. Without the booze and lust it all just seemed so… wrong. Sort of like seeing a distant aunt in huge panties and a girdle by mistake—disrobed.

Despite the perplexing anxiety this produced, once I sat down and looked at the mouth-watering menu with comforting prices (appetizers between $9–$16, pastas between $11–$18 and entrees between $19–$25), I felt better. And while the meal that followed that night and one other didn’t quite summon up the smile that Kefi did, the food and ambience did provide homey and stylish comfort suggested by the laid-back atmosphere.

Although the wine list is a terse affair (but reasonably priced to match with glasses between $9–$16), a crisp, tangy Ferrari-Carrano Fumé Blanc was the right start to my early evening, and the lights started to seem more appropriate as I gulped it down. Plus the artfully displayed black and white plates on whitewashed brick, and Palm Beach-inspired wallpaper took me home to the balmy beaches of Florida.

Looking over the menu, my friend and I decided to dabble in all of the sections, starting with the diverse appetizers. We chose well. The octopus was tender and sweet, an anchovy vinaigrette laced under the tentacles with salty feta and olives served as obvious but tasty accessories.

Crispy fried rabbit with translucent fingerling potato chips was the star of the small plates list though. The slivers of starch had me at first salty bite. Before I even glanced at the hunks of rabbit breaded with crumbs and hints of parmagiano-reggiano, I instantly dug into the shimmering take on good old Lays. The vinegar, hidden in a thin slick on the chips, rang sharply in my nose, and the flash-fried parsley mingled with the basket of crunchers made them more than irresistible—they were addictive. Add a creamy cucumber remoulade (which was probably more for the rabbit, but who’s checking), and you’ve got something deadly here.

Thankfully I was able to rip myself away to concentrate on the worthy main component. I’m not always a fan of rabbit, the gamey meat often curling my tongue back. But this rendition was sweet and crunchy without being overly fried, and the game quotient was somehow subdued and delicate. After polishing off the tasty starters, we moved on to a delicious skate dish, the stringy fish gently holding to a thin pan-fry, crunchy ramps and surprisingly crisp (in a fantastic way) escarole—an unexpected plate-licker.

My second visit didn’t fare quite as well. The pasta I chose from the well-edited list, chitarra with clams, was gloppy with sticky cheese and too much oil, making the starch overwhelm the hidden, tiny clams. Only a blast of garlic and chile heat made its way through the mess.

The Spiedini from the starter list served as a mildly pleasing, filling entrée. On a gleaming white rectangle, five tiny bites were presented like gifts for a newborn…on skewers: a well spiced but severely undercooked lamb polpetti (meatball), mushy sweetbreads with too-little crunch, a tender but boring tiny quail, a classic bite of merguez sausage and the one prize of the dish—pork involtini made of sweet pork meat wrapped around dripping mozzarella. Although the dish packed a stuffing wallop for a small plate, I would have preferred more flavor, less meat.

While the décor and food whisper comfort—if not excitement or seduction— I did find the service almost rude and certainly haphazard. When I sat at a table, the waiter kept insisting I was done with my wine despite a couple of sips left. At prime time, I can understand the need for a table, but so early (and with nobody waiting in the wings up front), it seemed not only inappropriate, but also amateurish for the pedigree of a restaurant run by Psilakis. While the bar fared better, with an affable bartender, many questions I asked went unanswered, usually with a friendly shrug.

But you don’t come to Mia Dona for those points—you got to Anthos apparently. Instead, you visit this spot for an amiable vibe, tasty if not mind-blowing food, more than decent prices and a haven where you can wow yourself with a few favorites or simply enjoy your time with wine, pitchers of beer and the rest of the middle ground.


Follow Up: Mia Dona is no longer serving the fried rabbit starter to rotate more seasonal dishes. I’ll keep you posted if something can match the crunchy delight.

Mia Dona
Rating: Good
Address: 206 East 58th Street
Phone: 212.750.8170