Gottino: The Great Taste of Tiny

Though I love wine and try to learn about it as much as possible, I also try equally hard not to turn into a wine snob in the process (or an obnoxious version of one, at least). I do try to pronounce the complicated French and Italian names for practice and out of respect for a language not my own, but I don't wince when someone corrects me. I also don't try to argue, as in, 'no, no it's Muller Thurgau with a soft "th" like "thought."' I'm malleable. I want to learn. I. Am. Not. Perfect.

At Jody William's Gottino sometimes I wish I was, for wine-brilliance finds a home here. Fortunately, it's snuck into a good-humored, country setting, along with a fantastic array of small plates with their own unpronounceable names (I tried, to the chagrin of my bartender Kevin).

Much of the spot's contrast is due to the daper bartenders who scuttle behind the long white and gray marble bar: Their recommendations are always spot on even if they raise an eyebrow here or there. A seesaw between comforting enclave and hectic hotspot is also created by the thin narrow space with a plain brick wall on one side facing the L-shape counter. It's perfect when you want to slide by that oh-so-hot lawyer doing his crossword puzzle, but not so much when a fourth-date twosome is eye-molesting your chairs in that crazy, hovering way only New Yorkers have perfected.

Soft, happy accordions chime in from above and mix with happy, tipsy talk and the festive farmhouse vibe is punctuated with bountiful baskets of pomegranates, apples and gleaming pears, jars of jam and bottles of olive oil—a veritable cornucopia. Smaller bowls of hazelnuts fill in the rest of the space, crackers at the ready, provoking my always-present 13-year-old humor. With this the place begins to lighten up and the grins start coming as you start cracking and perusing the ridiculously awesome wine list.

But before the wine, comes the food. While Gottino drifts away from the money-spot with a few plates, most of the miniatures are tasty treats. Separated into sections including salatini, verdure, crostini , pesce and carne, the dishes within each area are uniform in price, only hitting the $40 mark for a full plate of meat and cheese, and otherwise staying in the $5–8 range. This is clear comfort in a restaurant-sphere with menus that often provide two bites for 30 bucks.

Of the crositini, pesto di noci serves up a powerful and even nutritious (nuts are full of protein, yay!) punch. Crusty, crunchy toast is slathered with a layer of chunky walnuts, zesty from a shake of basil and garlic goodness. Although by the end of the dish dryness is an issue, the saturated flavor makes it worth the necessary few sips of water. The carciofi e mentuccia (can you pronounce that??) is an even lighter toast with artichokes, mint and pecorino. It's a thoughtful combination of flavors with a bright burst from the mint, but turns mediocre after just a few bites.

From the verdure category, the shaved brussel spouts in tiny strands are roughage with spice, but move on to the meat and fish for a better use of calories: save the salad for lunch. The crespelle, a slightly fried, very crunchy crepe is filled with a tiny bit of prosciutto and fontina. Unfortunately the meat and cheese are overpowered by the carb, but that's pretty good all on its own. If you want to create a heavier meal, try the luxurious prosciutto di parma. The dry speck wrapped around caramelized endive doesn't take advantage of the vegetable's snappy, sweet assets: perhaps use the prosciutto here as well?

If you’re feeling a bit more adventurous, the head-on sardine with crunchy fennel, pine nuts and raisins packs a salty/sweet delight. But the most impressive and inventive item tastes like a fantastic holiday meal mish mashed inside the mouth: Heirloom apples stuffed with sausage ooze a heavenly fruity/meat liquid. Eating these orbs, it's hard not to feel just the tiniest bit celebratory.

At Gottino, it's a flavorful, if at times uneven, course. All along though, it's fun and educational with a staggering wine list that will take you many visits to tackle. With choices from old standbys like Primitivo and Pinot Grigio, to knockouts like the intense Cannonau and a fragrant Mujas (at reasonable prices ranging from $9–18 per glass), the hiccups get swallowed down with way too many gulps of delectable tipple and finger food to even be noticed.

Gottino
Rating: Great
Address: 52 Greenwich Avenue
Phone: 212.633.2590