Momofuku Ssam: Buns of Bliss

I've been converted. Not that I ever was a sacrilege, anti-Ssam heretic, I just simply had not taken the time to wait out the lines, the crowds and ever-buzzing, hard-slammed press of the spot. But now I will.

Especially since a fanatic hype swarmed over Momofuku Ko, I was literally scared to go near any of the restaurants in David Chang’s growing empire. But, on a random Saturday afternoon I was the victim of a hangover-induced cancellation. I found myself wandering around the East Village exhausted and nauseous from non-stop shopping (ahh…someone’s gotta do it). I lingered on the corner of 13th and 2nd, noticing the telltale, jubilantly hued peach on the front door of Momofuku Ssam. I peered inside, and at five o’clock the place was mostly empty. So I set aside my snarky, New York, “this can’t be as good as everyone says it is” attitude long enough to open the door and seat myself at the sleek, wooden-slab bar. And praise be the Lord, I’m glad I did.

Surrounded by tattooed, quasi-hipster/quasi-model-but-I-smile staff, the space has that truly cool cache that many other trendy spots only pretend to have. Aside from the adult slip and slide bar, the communal tables are sexy planks that lead to an open kitchen towards the back. Hip-hop mixes with hard rock and reggae overhead. But the impish vibe of the décor was balanced by the knowledgeable waitresses and bartenders who led me to food heaven.

That heaven is a place filled with Ssam steamed pork buns. One of many smaller plates on the menu, the dish was recommended by my personal angel, Stella, in the form of an ultimatum: the buns or a three-terrine sandwich, the bánh mi. I chose the first mostly out of shameful adolescent humor.

Thick slices of tender, luscious pork belly are packed in a bun with tangy hoisin sauce, refreshing cucumbers and tiny bits of sharp scallion—what could be bad. But the bun itself, the namesake of the dish was truly the transcendent star. A classic Korean item, the buns are smooth and slick on the outside. Essentially, they are a five-year-old’s dream come true—the sweet, spongy texture of good old Wonder Bread, the crusts nowhere in sight. Cake-like in both density and flavor, they not only highlighted the pork, but also were prey to my fingers pinching off bits to savor alone.

Although I was still in deep revere for said buns, the rest of the menu has treasures too, even if not quite as equal. The coconut milk stew with shrimp and calamari that was offered that day stood for an admirable battle. Upon first spoonful I got a swift wing in face, from the powerful, pungent Thai-Bird spice that heats up the creamy liquid. But the coconut flavor and tender seafood quickly calmed my shocked mouth and this balance remained throughout the rest of the bowl. And, the restaurant’s namesake, Ssam (meats to be rolled in lettuce, with ample condiments) was presented in three options. Most appealing is the beef ssam, with thick slabs of beef and sloppy, tangy sauces.

A terse list of desserts made the cut on the modified-daily menu, among them an orange and cream crumble cake and brownie pie. But with all that meaty goodness available, and a reasonable and even-sensed wine and saké list present, I might just go ahead and do the unthinkable. One more steamed bun, please.

Momofuku Ssam: Buns
Rating (of the buns that is): To Die For
Address: 207 2nd Avenue
Phone: 212.254.3500