Bar Milano

I want to like Bar Milano so badly. No, scratch that. I want to love Bar Milano. Fresh Italian ingredients, inventive combinations, a thoughtful wine list and unique cocktails always sound just right to me. Plus, adding a spot to the sporadic smatterings in the area makes a trip to see one my Gramercy friends that much less painful. But most importantly, I was instantly drawn to Bar Milano more by the lure of the Denton brothers’ other spots, Lupa and 'inoteca, than by the restaurant itself. If they can open those favorites, how could anything they do be bad? Both have always delivered that great warmth and conviviality that almost peaks above the vividly delicious flavors they serve up. Just almost, but not really.

But that’s why I was slightly disappointed with my time at the sleeker, stiffer Bar Milano. Like a dapper but slightly dour uncle of daring young bon vivants, the space is well designed and stylish, but almost to the point of a plastic parka where I had hoped for a down comforter. Marble counter tops, sparse white flowers and low lighting create a glamorous, cougar-sexy ambience, and the spot’s name is splashed in gold across glossed wood behind the bar like a swanky set from the 1970s. Beautiful, yes—it almost feels like Bianca Jagger might come out of the bathroom and sit down next to you in a fabulous, floor-length Halston. But inviting? Not quite.

The Denton warmth can be felt however in the friendly and knowledgeable staff, who are eager and happy to explain dishes, answer questions and tend to the diners’ needs. But it gets lost again in the tasty but sometimes overly-complex food and uber-mature atmosphere that appears slightly out of place with the younger neighborhood and vivacious proprietors. Truth be told, my let down was possibly more of my own fault than theirs: The brothers made it clear that they wanted to create a grown-up joint, and why wouldn’t they? Maybe they are growing up, too. But like that cousin you hope will never lose his impish bounce, the two seem to have replaced their joie de vivre with a streamlined taste of the high life.

That high life does its best in the bar. The cocktail list is creative and sophisticated. The 323 with rosemary-infused gin, balsamic vinegar, strawberries and basil is a snappy delight that’s refreshing but heady enough to last you until your entrée. The Muller Thurgau is spot on for any of the fish dishes, and whatever you choose, the bartenders are helpful but not pushy.

Once you sit down, an uneven, if at times exhilarating, ride awaits. The appetizers do their best in two seafood forms. The octopus soaked in Meyer lemon was eye-closing good, with crunchy fennel and treviso soaked in orange adding some sweetness to an often overly-salted item. A thin disk of scallop carpaccio was painted with nutty olive oil, sea salt and shards of Meyer lemon rind to create a fresh, summery bite even when the citrus flavor overpowered the meek mollusk.

The land items on the small plates are less inspiring: patata imbottita reminded me of a hot-pocket, with a skin of potato covering eggs and fontina cheese. It sounds delicious, but the sum of the parts was mushy and unctuous. Even the tiny dollop of caviar could not convince me that the indistinguishable flavors were anything other than a hangover breakfast bite.

Moving on to pastas is a similarly two-sided affair. Pinci with cuttlefish, calamari and squid was an elegant plate of luscious carbohydrates highlighted with well-cooked seafood. Garlic and a hint of heat from chili peppers enhanced their briny flavor. But, the Cuscini all Osso Busco was a meager showcase of the less-is-more slant. While the meat’s tenderness came through, its flavor was lost. The sprinkle of breadcrumbs did little to enhance any flavor, and I sat wondering what this dish’s highlight was intended to be.

The entreés offer more hearty compositions, with the exquisite monkfish one treat of the lot. The delicate, mild fish is accessorized with a luxurious medallion of foie gras plus crunchy pears to ensure that the richness is kept in check. A thick pork chop also does well with mustard fruit.

Truth be told, by dessert time at each meal, I was so baffled by the highs and lows that I opted out. And, with prices squeaking up into the $40s for some entreés, I felt it better to enjoy my wins and cut my losses.

On my most recent visit a popular buzz had firmly taken root in the restaurant, as patrons in the area were clearly relieved to have a gourmet option. Upon leaving, I looked back into the sexy enclave with slicked wooden panels and the happy faces so indicative of a Denton restaurant. I thought that like a luxurious but chilly hotel, I’d enjoyed my stay, but wouldn’t be there all the time; only on specific, adult occasions. Mostly, look for me at Lupa. But when my parents are in town, I’ll surely be in Milano, where I’m guessing the warmth of the family fire will soon heat up the chill.

Bar Milano
Rating: Great
Address: 323 Third Avenue
Phone: 212.683.3035