Terroir

After trekking through some disappointing wine-bar terrain, every time I visit Terroir on East 12th street, I enjoy one of those satisfied sighs...especially when I get my favorite seat by the floor-to-ceiling window. The addition to Marco Canora's holdings (which includes Hearth and Insieme) has a huge wine selection courtesy of sommelier extraordinaire Paul Grieco and embodies a pensive, but not stuffy mood. It also has a gourmet-happy underpinning that makes you want to drink just one more glass, smile quietly, and instead of rushing to your next Manhattan duty, enjoy your time there instead.

Props to the DJ here, as well: Jimmy Hendrix, the Shins and Miles Davis often pump overhead at this gourmand’s answer to a laid-back happy hour. With just enough seats for a couple of girls’ night parties, laid-back dates and wine dilettantes, the warm atmosphere and cramped physical space decrease the possibility that it will be totally overtaken by the glitterati who usually descend upon newer joints. Maybe Canora and Grieco are not happy about this, but I am.

Although the wine is the star of this spot (the name refers to geographical influences of a wine that inform its flavor), the food definitely holds its own. For a full night of drinking, try the incredible veal and ricotta meatballs. You aren’t dreaming: The cheese is IN the meatball. And, they are the size of your fist and the tomato sauce tastes like an Italian Mama is hiding in a cabinet of the makeshift kitchen in the corner. You will want to eat these every day, probably for both lunch and dinner.

The fatty slab of pork blade also soaks up libations quite well, although the particularly hammy flavor of this cut can be overwhelming in its salt quotient. While the duck-ham with taleggio panini is bland, the radicchio and mozzarella choice is drippy in that delicious sizzling cheese way—a less gluttonous pizza. Or try the lamb proscuitto panini. The gaminess of the meat slices are tempered by pickled, acidic sunchokes and a punch from spicy arugula. It's a surprising combination that's ultra satisfying.

Zesty sage leaves stuffed with lamb sausages are a Mediterranean delight and you can finish the meal with a makeshift dessert of the super-sweet beet and risotto balls. While I was disappointed with them as a savory dish, when I bit into the chewy round, I realized they just needed a label shift. The crispy outside tastes more like a sweet donut than breading, but really, what’s bad about that?

Terroir also offers standbys like charcuterie, cut thin and served with oily olives and a lovely cheese selection. Heavenly Boucheron and fatty salami are a TDF combo.

Once you’ve made sure you're adequately and surprisingly well-fed, you’ll be ready to turn your attention to the dizzying, fantasy wine list...the main attraction. In keeping with the “let’s learn about and love wine in an unintimidating way," the menus are popped into school-binders, covered in adolescent scribbles and stickers. While this might be a nauseating gimmick at other places, the staff’s pleasant assistance negates any snarky comments that might be forming on your lips.

Choices by the glass are offered in full doses or in dabbles of 3 ounces. I always veer towards the sampling sizes, as my alcohol tolerance is low but my taste tolerance is high; I’ve made it through much of the selection of whites by the half glass—not a bad idea to try out all that the extensive list covers, although you might want to take more than one night to do so.

Over the summer, the spot featured an astounding choice of Reislings and you can always find a couple superb selections of them on the list. Another winner is the tangy 2008 Bukettraube. It flies through tons of fruit from grapefruit and melon to more tropical types...maybe mango? Although a floral Jurancon Sec is a bit too heavy, the Hungarian Tokaj (tocai) is luscious with more honey-suckle depth than I've tasted in the Venetian versions.

Reds by the glass play the same wide-range game, with a scope from a peppery Pinot Noir, to a jammy Crozes-Hermitage. Bottom out with the heavenly and complex Chatneuf du Pape. It rides a wave starting with cherry notes that open into a soft hit of spice and finishes round and clean. Or the Barolo is a velvety glass with intense dimension and heavy fruit. But save these two for nights when you can really concentrate on them: A whole glass is better for the heavy hitters.

If you aren't in the mood for wine, flavorful and balanced cocktails, mostly by mixologist Marshall Altier are spot on with bases of wine that still fill a tumbler. The Terroir Loire is especially punchy and fragrant with Bourgueil, Lavender, grapefruit bitters and sparkling Vouvray.

Bottles are even more diverse than glasses and tastes, and hilarious, informative tidbits and anecdotes accompany the notes in the school-binder. And, each time you return, with the help of the servers who are willing to really get into a discussion, with fun stories about suppliers, grape varieties and their own favorites, you might start to understand--and, gasp, enjoy-- "terroir" as a concept.

Need some reading material? Want to learn about your tipple? This is the spot. And it hits the spot.

Terroir
Rating: Excellent
Address: 413 East 12th St.
Phone: 646.602.1300