10 Downing

When I first moved to New York, one of my very favorite things to do was just stroll. It didn't matter where--the West Village, Upper East Side, Union Square. I wanted to discover every block and corner. I loved happening upon a vintage store with an ancient chihuahua as the mascot (Eva's in the East Village), or wandering into the middle of a drum circle in Washington Square (well for about one minute at least). For those first sweet months it really did seem like everything and anything was possible in New York. Many days I still feel that way.

It wasn't until I'd lived in NYC for six months that I realized there was another reason I loved these walks so much: If you take a moment to look up and across the sidewalk, people's lives present themselves from the small peepholes of windows. Although I'm not a voyeuristic person usually, these rectangles fascinated me---and still do. Paper flowers taped to panes, a huge tree squashed in a living room corner or a bookcase bending from the weight of tomes all speak of the different lives that are crammed in this city. What gets me even more is the innovation and creativity needed to use each and every inch of teensy or oddly-shaped apartments.

After five years I've now visited the inside of a huge array of homes in New York---from gigantic lofts and proper townhouses to disgusting studios and worn-in walk-ups---and the windows are as good inside as out in speaking to the unique personality and fervent individuality that defines NYC for me.

Point being, this sort of glimpse into someone's eccentric, personal taste is what visiting Chef Jason Neroni's (with consultant Katy Sparks') new spot 10 Downing feels like. It's full of the personal touches and quirky aesthetics that I liken to a close, artsy friend's impressive, but comfortable, apartment. Maybe this feeling hit me because of the art smorgasbord on the walls. In the cheese-wedge shaped space, the wall hangings range from pastel hued portraits to modern sketches and old movie posters.

While the barrage of color is lovely, entering 10 Downing is a seriously unwelcoming aspect of the whole set up. Because of the triangular room, the entrance is set on Downing street where a few stairs and a squeaky door lead you straight to the maitre 'd podium. This would be fine except once there, you are caught in a complete bottle-neck. On your right is a hallway down to the kitchen invariably clogged with busy bussers while to your left is the slim bar invariably packed with handsome customers. A short glass partition separates this mess of a commotion from the main dining area. Once you have crossed over, the rest of the night is mostly a joy. But these few (or on a weekend night, many) hectic moments are enough to snap any neurotic New Yorker's nerves.

Fortunately the staff have the homey and accommodating vibe down, and once you take a seat at one of the sleek wooden tables with a thatched place mat in front of you, you're in for an enjoyable experience. There are missteps for sure, but at his newest endeavor, serious Neroni shows he knows how to impress, but remembers to have fun, too.

First on the plate are fluffy rolls with treats of rosemary tucked throughout and they are perfect for ripping and dipping in olive oil as you glance through the menu. If you want to have Neroni's best right off the bat, the ocean trout tartar is uber-fresh with tangy mustard seeds. The pop of the seeds with the slick fish is invigorating and a cool take on a classic.

The blue spot prawns a la plancha are a similarly simple taste treat with a punch from thoughtful condiments. The plump critters are cooked just enough to leave them with a healthy snap and dressed with garlic olives and valencia oranges. The citrus surprise lightens the herbacious slick and reminds me of swaying palms somewhere tropical.

Squid ink agnolotti are another seafood hit with luscious, dark pasta filled with sugary peekytoe crabmeat. The packets swim in a tomato and lemon butter bath with a tiny wallop from a dash of chili. Keep a rosemary roll handy for soaking this sauce up.

The roasted brussel sprouts with soft boiled egg and parmesan are a redo of the breakfast trend that's landing on many menus. The leaves are crispy and the anchovy vinaigrette did add some great saltiness, but after the seaside wonders, this dish simply garnered a quiet smile. If you want a tastier, light option, try the hearty beet salad with picon blue cheese and onions. While a beet-and-cheese item is usually pretty standard fare for New American joints, grapefruit enlivens what might be a dud elsewhere.

From the entrees, carnivores, veggies and pescatores have equal footing. If you want a swimmer, the montauk fluke is the real heavyweight. It's actually the most decadent of all the mains---nice for a fish to be getting so much attention! The unexpectedly huge flavor is thanks not only to the perfectly cooked, flaky flesh, but also a silky leek puree accessorized with nobs of dense chanterelles. It's a desert of a dinner.

The gnocchi are another on Neroni's calorie-splurge list (and fully worth it). The lumps of potato are barely held together and melt with just one chew. They bob in a puree of butternut squash that's also equal parts sardinian sheep's cheese. Chunks of the orange vegetable serve as a reminder that this dish has one healthy component for good measure. This mushy yumminess might not be intended for daily health, but it rivals the fluke in lick-the-plate award.

The bison steak is less impressive. While it's cooked well with juiciness to boot, the red salsa drizzle and green salsa condiment left me puzzled. Both items masked the bison's inherently musky, wonderful flavor. While I love that Neroni has decided to use the health-conscious beef alternative, I'd definitely opt for the fattier, well-cooked lamb. Although the loin and chop are seasoned with restraint, the punch is in details here. Chickpea panisses, small squares of the mashed bean, are addictive and salty and friends with some tangy cubes of feta cheese. All together in a bite, the lamb gets the zing it needs. And if you just want some comfort, the roasted chicken with lemon, almond panzanella and arugula does the trick without a yawn of boredom.

After a dinner spent smiling at the food, walls and bustling scene of the 10 Downing home, you might think it too good to be true for dessert to measure up. And while the espresso semifredo is too self-conscious with kumkwat strands, the grown-up PB&J choice is jaw-dropping tasty. Logs of challah bread are toasted and coated in cinnamon and sugar. They're ready to be dipped in home made peanut butter gelato and jam. Eat the parts separately or get back to your childhood and make a sandwich TDF.

With each bite of this dessert I enjoyed what the 10 Downing team was going for: Clear flavors, use of technique and balance for sure. But also, it's a nod to feeling cozy and at home in a city way. Although it doesn't always quite end up this way, on its best nights 10 Downing is able to be a hotspot and neighborhood joint all at the same time. Case in point: While Anne Burrell stopped by to cheek-kiss her friends, I felt just as comfortable with my friends at my own table.

What a nice window.

10 Downing
Rating: Excellent
10 Downing St. at 6th Avenue
212.255.0300